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Tune in to Turin

Citybreak GO: Less flashy and brash than Milan, less consciously touristy than Venice, Turin is the real secret of northern Italy, writing SHEILA KILLIAN

The market is paintbox-bright and flooded with the smell of fresh produce - mounds of red tomatoes, purple aubergines and pyramids of lemons, sweet strawberries piled on a cart, strange mushrooms that could have come from a Lord of Rings prop box, laid reverently on a bed of straw, and everywhere people talking at the top of their voices in a mixture of languages.

It's Mercato di Porta Palazzo in Turin, claiming to be the largest outdoor market in Europe, and who knows, maybe. This is certainly massive and multicultural glare of scents and sounds. Half the place is stalls of fruits and vegetables. The lobby of the meat is like a scene of carnage with skinned rabbits recognizable, horses and domestic animals hanging or more tranches open for sale. The fish room has everything you ever imagined swimming in the sea piled up on beds of ice. It is abundant, strong, fantastic.

However, Turin, itself is the essence of understated elegance.Decorated with Italian flags to mark the 150th anniversary of Italian unification, the sidewalks are covered punctuated by cafes where people sit and drink a coffee or cold, fruity ice cream, taking a break from their day. There are over 20 km of galleries with columns, so that even in bad weather, you can stroll through the streets of comfort.

And what streets - Turin is a city designed by the best architects of the 17th and 18th centuries, used by the house of Savoy, who made this place their home and, as a guide told us, "insisted it must be beautiful" .Designers later carried on the work, the superposition of the arcades along the streets so that now the work of 200 years or more seems continuous. Even today, the work focuses on the Luci d'Artista annual competition challenges artists to brighten up the streets during winter with games intelligent color and light.

Here, at the foot of the mountain early in the fertile Po Valley, is also a great place for food, including coffee, chocolate and hazelnuts. My daughter was thrilled to discover she was, as she says, "the house of Tic Tac", and put his request in early for sweet memories.

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